Fanatec | Official Support Thread

W

Wido Rossen

  • Wido Rossen

Looks pretty neat this wheel.....and it`s wireless.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yeah we are, I finally got my USB adapter here yesterday and it will not stay calibrated.

It's a possibility it may be USB power related. I am going to test with less devices plugged in tonight

Not usb power related, had the minimum devices plugged into get AC up and running and the shifter just loses calibration. Support said that they are "out of the office" until the 17th and to email webshop@fanatec.com. No response yet.
 
Upvote 0
Fanatec are having problems with their adapter. Connected directly to your CSW unit and your fine. For those without a CSW unit well ... Hope they can fix that soon for you :)

Since Fanatec is also having a lot of issues with the CSS SQ itself, and if you are using the USB adapter it is most likely because you do not have a Fanatec wheel.
How is someone to know if it is the adapter and not the shifter itself who is defective?
 
Upvote 0
It might be the firmware that might create some of the problems with the adapter. According to. a customer in email contact with Fanatec.
Quote:
"He is trying to find a solution with the firmware team. He is not sure why the games refuse the gears, but he is trying to find a solution asap. Possibly a new firmware with appropriate updater."
 
Upvote 0
It might be the firmware that might create some of the problems with the adapter. According to. a customer in email contact with Fanatec.
Quote:
"He is trying to find a solution with the firmware team. He is not sure why the games refuse the gears, but he is trying to find a solution asap. Possibly a new firmware with appropriate updater."

The game's don't lose the calibration its the device itself. You can see in the fanatec device manager where you calibrate it that it just loses the calibration not game related at all.

I dont have a Fanatec wheel or friend with one to verify this unfortunate .
 
Upvote 0
Short version. CSP brake pedal doesn't work in windows, works on ps3.

Long version:
This problem started yesterday when Iwas playing gt6. Suddenly the brake had kinda malfunctioned. It was always at 50% and pushing the brake made it go to 100%. I tried restarting the wheel, disconnecting the wheel and the pedals and restarting ps3. Nothing. The brake stayed that way. I thought the loadcell had failed so I tried the pedals on windows. Brake doesn't work at all. Nothing happens when I press the brake pedal. Other pedals worked fine.

Then I disassembled the pedals, cleaned the bits and just because I had them open there I changed the foam bit on the brake to another from the tuning kit. And then I put them back on.

So when I plug the pedals directly to my pc using the usb pressing the brake pedal does nothing. The brake bar stays in 0 but the other pedals work fine. However in ps3 the brake seems to work just fine when I connect the pedals to my 911turbo s wheel like you do on ps3. I only had short time to check on ps3 because I need to leave to work now.

Is the pcb broken? Or could it be just some connector there working itself loose?
 
Upvote 0
Just to add to my earlier post above it looks like the brake isn't working correctly on ps3 either. It kinda works but at times I get stuck brake pedal with 30%, 50% or 70% brake after I use the brake. But fully pressing the brake momentarily seems to fix it. Until I need to brake next time which causes the brake to stick. Small amounts of brake seems to work fine but anything more than 50% brake causes the brake to stick. The mechanical brake is fine so the problem is purely eletrical.

Is it the loadcell or the pcb?

Anyways, I was never a fan of the loadcell brake anyways so I think I buy some potentiometers and convert the pedals pot based. Anyone have the wiring diagram for the fanatec pot based pedals so I could still use the pedals with my 911 turbo s wheel on ps3. I think the csr pedals use pots. Anyone know what pots (linear 20kohm?) those pedals use and how they are wired to the ps/2 connector?
 
Upvote 0
Thanks for the link but the only reason really why I do not want to order anything from anywhere is because I want to get back driving as soon as possible. I don't want to wait 2 or more weeks :).

Anyways I made a new thread about the pedal mod I'm thinking about doing...
 
Upvote 0
The second CSS shifter ( see previous post for details ) finally arrived, it works great, better than I expected, very immersive. Once again Fanatec gear proved to be worth the trouble , at least to me.
Only wish they would be no trouble in the first place.

Word of advice for anyone having trouble with their gear, get it replaced. When it works it works flawlessly and the experience is very rewarding .
 
Upvote 0
I have the fanatec csp v1 pedals. Is it possible to swap the brake (loadcell) and clutch (hall sensor) connectors on the pcb? I ask because I found one thread on the internet where someone claims such thing is possible (apparently he was told by fanatec support to disconnect the loadcell from the pcb and connect the throttle to brake on the pcb to troubleshoot the loadcell he was having problems with).
 
Upvote 0
It'd be interesting to hear whether customers with the non-SQ version are facing issues as well.
Yes, non-SQ version here, because I thought it might be less prone to issues. Well...its not. Seems it doesn´t recognise the horizontal position of the shifter very well, so 1st gear might be 1st, reverse or 3rd and so on.

If I put the gear to 1st, then go back to neutral, and repeat this about twenty times with every gear, I can mostly get rid of the problem. But I have to do this every time I start using this shifter.

Seems I need to contact the support.
 
Upvote 0
Yes, non-SQ version here, because I thought it might be less prone to issues. Well...its not. Seems it doesn´t recognise the horizontal position of the shifter very well, so 1st gear might be 1st, reverse or 3rd and so on.

If I put the gear to 1st, then go back to neutral, and repeat this about twenty times with every gear, I can mostly get rid of the problem. But I have to do this every time I start using this shifter.

Seems I need to contact the support.
Thanks for sharing! Please keep us posted on any progress or lack thereof. :)
 
Upvote 0
Just a small bit of news. There has recently been some updates to the Fanatec website along with requests on the website support discussion boards regarding parts, motors, etc.. It will be interesting to see how Fanatec responds.
 
Upvote 0
Wonder if anyone can help here. I've recently sent an email explaining my issues to fanatec;

I have purchased a GT2 Wheel and the Clubsport V2 EU Pedals. The feeling of the wheel is not how I expected it and I am sure it is not meant to be/feel like this. When I am turning around a corner, the steering wheel does not return to the centre freely, I have to pull it back, unless I lift off the throttle or change gear. Basically if I keep the throttle down and let go of the steering wheel, it will just drive around in a circle. As for the Pedals, the Brakes vibration/rumble feature is not working in game. When I test in the Fanatec wheel property page the vibration works fine, just not in game. Both the wheel and pedals have their own USB that is plugged into my PC. Does the pedals need to be connected to the wheel for this feature to work?

I will also add that I am PC platform and have the correct and latest firmware and drivers installed. As soon as I go into PC mode, before I start the game, it seems to lose the return to centre. If I switch into XBOX mode the wheel returns to the centre as soon as I let go off the wheel.

Any Ideas?

Thanks and appreciated! Damn technology! :)
 
Upvote 0
What game are you using on the pc ?
Try inverting the ffb in game in the controller setting.
If you are playing assetto corsa you can click to invert the ffb ,
If it is rfactor you are playing set the ffb in the negative (-) so like -100% ffb
If its already negative or inverted set it the other way around.



For the brake vibration download fanaleds and in the setting make sure the brake vibration is ticked.

On wheel profile setttings on the display of your wheel you will see abs, you can set it to what percentage of brake pressure it takes for the vibration to kick in,
I normally set it to 70-75%

I hope this helps.
 
Upvote 0

Latest News

Are you buying car setups?

  • Yes

  • No


Results are only viewable after voting.
Back
Top